City of the dead

Sounds like a bad B movie. Yet in late Roman times cities of the dead or necropolises were springing up all over the place. The largest of these burial grounds found by archeologists in Tarragona and its surroundings is the so-called Paleochristian or Early-Christian necropolis along the old Roman road to Valencia. It is said to be not only the largest and most important Early-Christian necropolis in Spain but also one of the most significant in the entire Western Roman world. Not bad for a B movie!

The excavations of this ancient world of the dead in the 1920s and 1930s unearthed a gigantic number of tombs of different types - in total 2050!; and a small number of funerary buildings and sarcophagi of those with more money. Since then other late-Roman burial sites have been uncovered in Tarragona (in fact all the way along the present-day C/Eivissa down to the necropolis complex), but none like this one. This was at the time of its construction - in the 3rd century AD - suburbia, located outside the walled city, on the western edges of Tarraco. What was found are the kind of things that have usually got lost in past excavations. The Romans´pagan burial rites, ceremonies and art forms (such as the funerary banquet and the washing and preparation of the deceased) merged with new Christian funerary customs and symbols (such as the use of primitive Christian images on the grave). What I found most fascinating about this place is that this is eclectic stuff; this is Christianity not quite the way we know it, adopting well-established and effective pagan art forms and rituals; a peculiar mix between things Roman and things pointing to the Christian Middle Ages.

The human remains that were exhumed, the inscriptions, the sculptures, statues, mosaics and the artifacts found inside the tombs have given archeologists and historians an unusual insight into the everyday life of the common people of Tarraco. One of the museum´s most emblematic artifacts is an ivory doll, a toy found in a sarcophagus containing the skeleton of a five-year old girl. This is fast becoming one of the Tarragona´s symbols. The surprising thing is that the necropolis complex - an open air zone and a museum pavillion - is not open for the public. It´s been closed since 1994 due to lack of funding! Unbelievable but true; one of Tarragona´s great public scandals. What is open to the public, however, is one exhibition room (Av. Ramon i Cajal, 84) which under the name ´El Mundo de la Muerte´ presents some of the most representative finds of the necropolis. A great starter, while the main dish remains hidden away on the closed grounds and behind the closed doors of the complex.

The site is perhaps a bit tricky to find for a tourist because it is located at the other end of the city, a 20-minute walk away from the circus and amphitheatre - so a city map and the right address is essential. Interesting to know as well that the southern part of the necropolis still lies unexplored below the next-door tobacco factory (now in the process of being converted into a new arts centre and possibly new seat of the grand national archeological museum now located in the Parte Alta), while the northern edges, including the remnants of a 5th-century basilica, have been uncovered and are now part of an archeological site that´s been incorporated into the Parc Central shopping centre that lies next door. There are now talks to re-open the entire necropolis complex, including the open air zone. This is the very least a site that carries the World Heritage label deserves. But I leave you with this exquisite, 4th-century funerary portrait in mosaic of bishop Optimus that is on display in the exhibition.