Romancing the stone

Of the 15 kilometres there is still a small stretch left. What am I talking about? The Roman aqueduct of Les Ferreres of course. Or, what the locals call the Devil´s Bridge (Puente del Diablo). Less well-known than the aqueduct of Segovia, the 217-metre-long remains of this water channel that served the booming Roman city of Tarraco are hidden away, some 4 km from the city, crossing a small wooded valley of 26 metres deep. The arcades were only the most visible part of any aqueduct of course: powered entirely by gravity, water was carried through tunnels and pipes, with arcades such as these built to cross irregular terrain.
Unlike the Segovia aqueduct which continued in use and was restored over the centuries, the work of Tarraco´s surveyors and hydraulic engineers was abandoned up until recently. The stuff of romantic postcards perhaps but also the stuff of neglect and vandalism. Fortunately, a major, two-year long process of restoration and archeological-architectural study has now started - far later than on any of the other grand monuments of Tarraco - which will hopefully put the beauty and splendour back into the aqueduct. Turning the location into an emblematic heritage site (including also a Roman quarry!) will also put it centre stage on the tourist map of Tarragona, which is where it really belongs. One can walk up to and also along the water-carrying channel atop the two tiers of arches, which is quite an experience (the intention of the restoration process is actually to get water running in the channel!).

For the duration of the restoration works the aqueduct is fenced off. If you want access and see the monument really close-up (free of charge), you´ll need permission to do so. Without a car, you´ll get there in five minutes taking a city bus (Line 5) from Plaça Imperial Tarraco or C/Colom, direction San Salvador and getting off at the Pont del Diable stop. With four wheels, from Tarragona you´ll take the road to Valls/Lleida (N240) and just past the bridge of the AP-7, you´ll find a sign on your right-hand side pointing to the aqueduct!